Where to Eat in Iraq

Iraq's dining culture is a magnificent tapestry woven from ancient Mesopotamian traditions, Persian influences, and Levantine flavors, creating one of the Middle East's most distinctive culinary landscapes. Iraqi cuisine centers on aromatic rice dishes like biryani and timman, slow-cooked stews such as tashreeb and quzi (roasted lamb over rice), and the ubiquitous masgouf—Tigris River carp grilled over open flames that serves as Iraq's national dish. The dining scene blends traditional mataam (local restaurants) serving home-style cooking with modern cafes and kebab houses, where communal eating and generous hospitality define every meal. Baghdad's resurgent restaurant culture, alongside Basra's seafood traditions and Erbil's cosmopolitan dining scene, offers travelers an authentic taste of Iraqi generosity where meals are social ceremonies rather than mere sustenance.

Signature Dining Districts and Experiences:
• Baghdad's Al-Karrada and Al-Mansour Districts: These neighborhoods host the capital's densest concentration of restaurants, from traditional mataam sha'abi (popular eateries) serving dolma (stuffed vegetables) and kubba (bulgur dumplings) to upscale venues offering quzi and pacha (sheep's head and trotters). Abu Nuwas Street along the Tigris River remains famous for masgouf restaurants where fish is butterflied, salt-crusted, and slow-grilled on stakes beside the water.
• Erbil's Gulan Street and Ankawa: The Kurdish capital's dining heart features both traditional Kurdish birinj (rice dishes) with kurma (lamb stew) and modern restaurants serving tepsi (layered meat and rice casserole). Ankawa's Christian quarter offers unique dishes like kofta variations and grilled meats unavailable elsewhere in Iraq, with outdoor dining gardens particularly popular during spring and autumn months.
• Basra's Corniche and Old City: Southern Iraq's port city specializes in seafood preparations distinct from the rest of the country, including samak mashwi (grilled fish), mahi qaliya (fish curry with tamarind), and date-based dishes reflecting the region's vast palm groves. The Shatt al-Arab waterfront restaurants serve fresh catches with timman bagilla (rice with fava beans), a Basran staple.
• Price Ranges and Meal Costs: Budget local eateries serve filling meals of kubba, tashreeb, or falafel wraps for 3,000-8,000 Iraqi Dinars (IQD 2-6 USD). Mid-range restaurants offering quzi, mixed grills, and masgouf cost 15,000-35,000 IQD (10-25